Union's trip

The Soul music was the first thing I distinguished when I went in. I didn’t know if it was Aretha Franklin or another 1960´s singer. The music fits perfectly with this environment. As the restaurant’s name “The Union Grill Cabaret Grille” alludes, it perfectly represents the mid 1950’s New York or Chicago bars and cabarets, where Jazz and Blues musicians used to get together. White and black paintings decorated the brick walls, giving it a classic touch. A mini scenario with a big piano that couldn’t be missed. Velvet curtains separated these two areas. The scenario lights gave an artistic air. Stained glass windows transformed the outside light into different colors. A bar table was in the back part of the restaurant for those who profit from the Happy Hour martinis from five to eight at night. It is more a casual than a fancy place. The atmosphere was nonetheless pleasant!

“This is an American restaurant with a little twist”, says the “The Union’s” chef, Eric Gillish. It was difficult to find that “twist” he referred to in the menu. While reading it, I found it was mostly all Mediterranean food like seafood and pasta; and all of them arebased on ingredients like basil, pesto or balsamic vinegar. However, I must say some of them have an American touch. Many of them are deep fried, have bacon or are served with mashed potatoes. You could find hamburgers and sandwiches, except for the fact that they are prepared in a more gourmet way. There are Salmon Burgers or Smoked Gouda Chicken Burgers. Steaks are the top dishes of this place. There are five types of steaks, whether with mushrooms, garlic or peppers. Gillishe’s educational influence was clearly reflected in la carte du jour. After studying in Grand Rabbits University, he made a food tour and training in France, Italy and Spain.

Even if Kalamazoo is a student’s city, this place was full of middle aged people. Most of them were around 40 or 50 years old. They enjoyed night drink and their Saturday chose from the enormous wine variety this restaurant offers. Imported and domestic wines were available. Of course, the prices changed a lot between both.  You could also find some families chatting while Western Michigan University College of Fine Arts renowned musicians entertained the guests with live jazz music. Music is the principle ingredient in this restaurant. Even when Gillish invited me to the kitchen, cooks were preparing food with the rhythm of music in the background.

            The best way to begin a “Unions” dinner is with a Fried Boursin Cheese. The waitress who attended me always highly recommends it to all of her costumers because it is her “favorite”. It is fresh goat cheese covered with crunchy fried pastry. The cheese presentation might be treacherous. It looks like a deep fried potato, but once you try you have to change your opinion. Around this cheese were slices of hot baguette and glorious small tomatoes seasoned with basil and olive oil. The combination of the cheese with the tomatoes and the bread was simply delectable. You could easily feel how your palate expanded. This appetizer reminded me of the time I ate in Via Veneto (Rome’s boulevard) where I had something pretty similar. For a few seconds, I travelled to Italy again. As a seafood fanatic, I was induced to choose a second appetizer called Grilled and Chilled Shrimp Cocktail. It was six large herb and garlic - grilled shrimps, served with a hot sauce and corn tortillas. The shrimps were natural, fresh and huge. Their flavor and cooking point were just perfect. Nevertheless, the combination of the shrimps with the hot tomato sauce simply didn’t match.  The sauce wasn’t even spicy enough. It was like putting together red pants and a yellow blouse. They were discordant.

            The musicians took a break. Now, I was sure of it. It was Aretha Franklin music. The artists drank water to moisten their throats and discuss among them. They were working on how to improve their show, probably. They can rest, but the waiters can’t stop. They were walking, nearly running, from one place to another. Dishes came in, dishes went out. I continued inspecting the menu. I couldn’t figure out exactly what type of food this restaurant offered. This was no specifically American food. It was a wild European, Mediterranean, American combination. The place adapted perfectly to a United States environment, but the food didn’t.

            The Union is close to celebrate its tenth birthday; it was opened for the first time in 2002. Eric Gillish said that in commemoration of this celebration, he is planning to change the restaurant’s menu. However, he must not change the incredible and extravagant Seafood Papardelle. It was handmade wide noodles tossed with shrimp, lobster meat, scallops pan seared and pesto cream sauce. On the top were a lump of crab and a few drops of balsamic. The mix of the cream with balsamic was amazing. They gave you generous pieces of lobster and again, huge and fat shrimps. It was simply delicious. Nonetheless, I still think this can’t be called an American dish.

            Eric Gillish explains that one of the highest alterations, compared with normal American Food, is that he doesn’t use a lot of oil or fat in his food. He tries to make it as healthy as possible. “This is one problem of American food”, said. I asked him what was his favorite dish on the menu. He couldn’t answer my question. It depends on his humor and day. According to him, our appetite and tastes change every day. Yes, I think this is definitely true. But most of the people can’t escape from desserts. “The Union” does not have a lot of dessert// options, but they are really different from one another. The Pecan Toffee Chocolate Torte and the Apple Blueberry Crisp are the best. The first one is a cake which has three layers of different types of chocolate and pecans. The combination of dark chocolate, butter toffee and chocolate mousse was so rich. Even though the second one also had layers, in this case, they consisted of oatmeal, nuts, apples in caramel, and blueberries. It was served warm with vanilla ice cream. Delicate and tasty!

            “The Union” is a good casual place to enjoy an evening out with your friends, have a drink, listen to good music and eat something more elaborated. Nevertheless, before deciding to go there, it would be better to check your wallet, your pockets, even your piggy bank because it might be more expensive than you would have expected. 

Fried Boursin Cheese

Grilled and Chilled Shrimp Cocktail 

 Seafood Papardelle

Pecan Toffee Chocolate Torte 

Apple Blueberry Crisp